Fashion for Dogs 2

Fashion for dogs 2 - entry picture coco 011.JPG
An affectionate reader has pointed out to me that in my article Fashion for Dogs, published on 10/1/14, there was no mention of overcoats for dogs, so here I am to remedy that with a small addition to the previous opus.

The model on the right, in the nude, bears little relation to the issue of overcoats, but should you like to obtain a similar one, you can enquire further by clicking here.


The white Westie below is wearing an iconic Ralph Lauren polo shirt, available for dogs up to 10 kgs.  The polo player can be seen on the collar (unlike in the version for humans, where it's on the chest) and the garment, in mesh cotton, comes in yellow, green, orange or pink.
The terry cloth dog hoodie, from Juicy Couture, is ideal for small dogs.  It's embroidered on the back, comes in pink, blue or green and is available from Neiman Marcus.
Fashion for dogs 2 - Ralph Lauren Polo shirt for dogs.jpgFashion for dogs 2 - Chihuaha Terry Dog Hoodie from Juicy Couture Nieman Marcus-pink, blue green.jpg
Fabergé eggs-inspired dog bed by Pawsitively Posh.jpg
The last item, obviously not a coat, is a Fabergé egg-inspired Fab Imperial Bed, by Pawsitively Posh and comes in deep-blue or pink velvet, the crown chew toy is delivered with the bed.

Now you know what the must-haves are, if you want to lavish on your darling pet.

Descriptions and photographs by sybarites.org


Yohji Yamamoto Y-3 Collection A/W 2010-11 in New York City

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The latest collection by Yohji Yamamoto for Y-3 was presented on February 14 in New York City at the Armory Building, the previous collection's same venue - a particularly spacious building, well suited to host the combination of tradition and future characterizing the designer's creations.

Y-3, very sporty and casual, is created in collaboration with Adidas, but it's far from being a selection of garments for sports activities, as you can tell from the pictures above and below.  Yamamoto's very own style can be seen in every single item and instantly recognized.  He succeeds in combining classic shapes with futuristic materials or, vice-versa, modern/futuristic shapes with classic fabrics, with the odd, witty reference to characters such as Zorro or the Scarlet Pimpernel.
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I have been an admirer of Yohji Yamamoto for many years and can still remember his extraordinary S/S 1999 collection which was presented in Paris in the Fall of the previous year, images of long black outfits often worn with white flat shoes, which prompted me to visit his store in town to buy similar garments.  I still have (and wear) a splendid cotton black jacket cut in two pieces, that is to say with only two seams, sleeves included, front and back, zipped up at the front and with a sort of unfinished look.  I have since re-dyed it black three or four times (black DOES fade, simply by walking outdoors in the sun).  Another Yamamoto garment I am particularly attached to is a long, black denim skirt with a silky ruffed front recalling the "skirts" (though they are not called that) of Japanese samurais.  They are timeless pieces, without being haute couture items.
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Look at the pictures here: the ample coats worn over large pants or multi-fold skirts, the subdued color combinations, khaki or gray with a touch of red, the bright red and yellow oversized raincoats.  I find Yamamoto's creations have that rare balance of cut and color which results in a never-too-striking perfection of clothes one can't help looking at.  Yohji Yamamoto is, in my eyes, a supreme master of his craft.
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Photographs by image.net by Getty Images

Light effects at show by Industrial Laser Art

Fashion show at: Park Avenue Armory Building, NYC



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The Oracle on Buying on Mobile Mags

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You can now read articles by the Oracle on Buying on Mobile Mags.  At the moment, you'll find reviews of the Men's Fashion Shows in Paris (both in English and French).  The articles can be read on your computer or, even better, (for that's what they are intended for) on your phone.  Simply download to your phone from the Mobile Mags website following simple instructions.

You will also be able to read an article about the late Alexander McQueen by the Oracle on 360fashion's main website.
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Alexander McQueen - Photograph by Philip Hollis

Futurism, Fashion & Design - Exhibition in Gorizia, Italy

Gorizia -Tullio Crai 1910-2000 Bozzetto per costume di scena 1933- Roma, Collezione Giacomini.jpg
Giacomo Balla, one of the founders of Futurism, wrote in his 1914 manifesto that "We think and we act as we dress" which is to say the habit DOES make the monk...unless the monk is cheating, of course.  Our choice of clothes tells much about ourselves, just as the choice of furniture for our home does, or why not, the choice of a car or a pet.  The artists who joined the futuristic movement wanted, as it's quite usual in all that's new, break away from what was considered to be great art or lifestyles merely because they had always been considered to be so, and that was quite right...taking things for granted is a way of not questioning, therefore refusing innovation.

The picture you see on the right is a sketch for a theatrical costume created in 1933 by Tullio Crali (1910-2000) from the Giacomini Collection in Rome, Italy.

So here we have a very beautiful exhibition with pieces produced during Futurism's hayday, ranging from clothes and accessories to decorative objects for the home, all somewhat related.  The symbols of masculine decoration were to be destroyed, down with the symmetrical jacket and the sad blacks and browns, men were to be peacocks again (as it had been up to a couple of centuries earlier, you may recall) with colorful waistcoats and scarves.  Down with neckties, which the Futurists associated with hangmen's nooses, up with new styles for outfits such as overalls/track-suits which could be worn by all, men and women.  Futuristic umbrellas or parasols, colorful and jolly, to respond fearlessly to a rainy day, but no, definitely no to constricting underwear (Futurists hated the stuff!).
Gorizia -Fortunato Depero - Gilet.jpg
At the exhibition, you'll be able to see some rare umbrellas and many original pieces from private collections, such as the dresses belonging to the collection of Laura Biagiotti or to Ottavio and Rosita Missoni.  The beautiful dress below, by Roberto Capucci, was created in later years in honor of Futurism.

On the right you can admire a waistcoat by Fortunato Depero, great design and splendid color association, in my view.

Gorizia - Abito taffetas plissé - courtesy Fondazione Capucci.jpgGorizia - Dettaglio abito Roberto Capucci.jpg
Gorizia - parasole blu piccoloCS0_1983a.jpgGorizia - parasole gialloCS0_2013a.jpgGorizia - parasole rossoCS0_2005a.jpg
The 1915 manifesto, signed by Balla and Depero, didn't limit itself to fashion, but explored applied arts, objects and furniture of everyday use, so as to be part of a wider reality.  Marinetti, another relevant representative of the movement, speaking of modernist international experiences, said: " Those men are at last discovering the joy of living between iron walls.  They have steel furniture, twenty times lighter and less costly than ours. They are freed from the debilitating fragility and looseness which come from wood and fabrics bearing country-inspired decorations".  The production of ceramics, mostly from the town of Albisola in Italy, includes the work of the Mazzotti brothers, Torido and Tullio and the destructured sculpture by Tullio and Nikolay Diulgheroff.
Gorizia - boccale acentrico Tullio Mazzotti Fobia%20antimitativaa.jpgGorizia - Tullio Mazzotti/Nikolay Diulgheroff Alzata%20in%20ceramicaa.jpgGorizia - Depero -tricolore_a.jpg
Above, left to right: Tullio Mazzotti d'Albisola, hand-painted terracotta carafe, 1928 (Antonello collection); Nikolay Diulgheroff/Tullio Mazzotti d'Albisola, elevation/sculpture in terracotta/majolica, 1930-31 (Antonello collection); Fortunato Depero, Italian Wings, four-panel screen in painted wood (private collection).

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The exhibition "Gorizia: Futurismi di Frontiera" sponsored by the Museums of the Province of Gorizia and by the Cassa di Risparmio Foundation, will be on until May 1st, 2010.  More information from Studio ESSECI.




Skunkfunk - Fashion from the Basque Country

SKUNKFUNK logo for entry
Skunkfunk represent a very new way to look at fashion, for they have succeeded in combining their ecological outlook with a large production, unlike the majority of "recycling" designers, whose pieces tend to be unique.  Admittedly, they do not recycle old clothes as such, but create by using exclusively eco-friendly processes and materials, such as soybean, bamboo, organic cotton and recycled polyester, so that you, too, can do your part, by purchasing their clothes, in making this planet a less plastic world.  Their creations are made with organically and ethically manufactured cotton, using solely sustainable energy generated from wind and solar.

Skunkfunk started off with a range of T-shirts, which sold like hot cakes at music festivals in the mid-nineties and by the year 2000 they were presenting their first collection of garments in several European cities, which coincided with the opening of their first store in Bilbao.  Clearly, Spain is where it all started and where all their ranges can at present be found in shops in Madrid, Barcelona and other major cities in the country.  By 2008, Skunkfunk, which had started as a family business, was available in countries throughout the world and the first store in New York City, in Manhattan's Lower East Side, was inaugurated.  Their clothes are now in over 1,000 multi-brand stores worldwide.
SKUNKFUNK S10_style 48.jpg - White girlSKUNKFUNK S10_style 18.jpg - Black boy
So much for their great success story, let's look at the clothes, as that's what we are mostly here for.   The first time I came across Skunkfunk in Madrid, a few years ago, I immediately had the impression that their garments were very new, different and, surprisingly in a way, wearable by all - by "all" I mean young or old, traditional or "funky".  This is a brand that joins cultures and nationalities, combining design and functionality (see the above two photos, from their SS/10 collection).  Their clothes are comfortable, very well finished and we can definitely say Skunkfunk do not follow trends set by others and that their outfits can be worn by a student in Paris or a professor in Munich, we can all find something to suit us in their collections.  Their star color, ever since the brand's beginnings, has been green, often associated with unexpected colors.  The clothes are made of durable materials and can rightly claim to break the rules imposed by fashion - they are both dynamic and functional...I am a great fan of theirs, in case you hadn't guessed yet...
SKUNKFUNK S10_style 39.jpg - girl in short dress
Skunkfunk handbags, purses and wallets are not just pretty, they are always created so as to be functional.  Zips on handbags open BOTH ways to allow you to hang your shoulderstrap without having to think first as to which would be the right way.  Their underwear is pretty AND comfortable...more collections and info on future activities can be found in their website.
Skunkfunk - white bag - on left side of pageCB526.jpg
Skunkfunk - white wallet CW121.jpgSkunkfunk - Purple bag CB522.jpgSkunkfunk - Black/turquoise bagCB536.jpgSkunkfunk - Women's underwear HELLI.jpgSkunkfunk - men's underwear JACOB+DARREN.jpgSKUNKFUNK big picture (final)_S10_5.jpg



Interview with Caterina Crepax - Paper Clothes, Art & Design

Crepax entry reduced.jpg
Here is my interview with Caterina Crepax (see previous article published 2010/01/04, Category: Art).

Patrizia:  Your father was able to create well-defined living creatures by jotting down a few lines on paper, whilst you yourself, Caterina, with a patient lacemaker's work, create containers from used sheets of paper, waiting to be inhabited (by fantasy or real people) to become living creatures, like Pirandello's characters in search of an identity...a true antithesis...is it intentional?

Caterina:  If it is an antithesis, it's certainly unintentiona!  It was never my desire to create strip cartoons,  I wouldn't have been able to invent any.  Nor did I fear a conflict, I was attracted by other forms of representation, of communication, by the idea of "three-dimensional" design, coming out of the paper and constructed as if by magic (like a pop-up book where you open a page and suddenly you see a fairy-tale castle, with rooms and stairs).  Valentina was always a presence at home, "one of the family", if one may say so. No conflicts, we each had our dreams. My own dreams consisted of staging small wonders, like a silent fairy godmother.  As I couldn't do it with words, when I was a child I used to invent and construct with my own hands little things that astonished people.  As I grew up, I continued with my passion for the "mise en scène", which was certainly something I inherited from my father (he used to do it with tables full of precious details, surprises and quotations to be discovered).  The pleasure was the joy of astonishing myself first before an object magically materialized and then sharing the amazement with others...in that brief moment, sometimes just an instant, you could feel as if you were somewhat in a dream in the company of fascinating creatures, such as fawns or insects....But going back to the antithesis, it is a fact that my clothes/bodies/body containers do not want to become fixed characters, with an unchanging identity, their names change, too.  They love to be desired and possessed by many passing souls.  They wear their secrets as if they were light, though impenetrable, suits of armor.  They are always telling different stories, they live in rooms of ancient palaces or they light up very modern urban environments.

Patrizia:  Are you a sculptor or a fashion designer?  I know my question is a bit absurd, as the diaphragm is so thin...Still, how do you see yourself?  Or are we going back to Pirandello's search of identity?

Caterina:  I have often been described, most poetically, as a "creator or paper dreams".  I don't know, talking about oneself as a creator of dreams sounds most ambitious, though, clearly, I like a definition of this kind and, if I manage to communicate some emotion, it must be a valid reason to continue proposing my work.  I definitely feel as if I am more of a paper sculptor (though my primary interest is stage decoration, objects and people in relation to and dialoguing with space) than a fashion designer or stylist...but I must admit that in the past few years I have much re-evaluated the importance of fashion as an art form.  I wouldn't mind being defined (though I don't like definitions, but think they are necessary) as an architect designing clothes as places to be inhabited by bodies!



Continue reading Interview with Caterina Crepax - Paper Clothes, Art & Design.

Fashion for Dogs

Fashion for Dogs, entry picture -Jayce by Julia (2).JPG
First, you have to get your basic ingredient, the DOG!  On the right is a model much favored by this writer (and by British royalty, in passing), more to be found in the future from very good manufacturers in France - follow the link...

Once you've got your dog, you can start envisaging how to make a smart fashion follower out of him or her.  You have to consider, of course, that certain items do not suit very large dogs, it would be kind of humiliating for a St.Bernard or Irish Wolfhound to wear fancy outfits, it isn't just a matter of size, either, but of LOOK - Poodles, Maltese or Pekes can get away with anything, but the most that can be tolerated on a large dog would be along the lines of a classic raincoat (see Bruce Weber's Golden Retrievers for Moncler).

Hermès have a long experience as animal outfitters (see below).  The company was originally founded in 1837 as a saddlery and, though they now mostly produce clothes and accessories for humans, their dog gear is most attractive and coveted by discerning dog-owners.  The pale blue jean collar with the Hermès lock (that can be engraved with the wearer's name and/or his phone number) is made in rough leather and must be custom-made, whilst the leash is available in standard sizes.  Louis Vuitton's Suhali collar is most elegant, too, in white kid leather with golden brass nails, lined in nubuck for comfortable wear, the edges are dyed red.
Fashion for dogs, collar by Hermes.jpgFashion for dogs, Hermès leashhleash.jpg
Fashion for dogs, collar by Louis Vuitton.jpeg
Above: Hermès   Right: Louis Vuitton


Very classical and very cool are Prada's black collar and leash in calfskin (below), but if you want something more garish you'll probably opt for Paul Smith's collar and leash in the signature multi-striped colorful pattern and, if you really must tell the world you are a dog of means, the Louisiana alligator collar by Ralph Lauren must be the ultimate status-symbol - it has a brass rounded clasp and a buckle engraved with the RL initials.





Fashion for dogs pradacollar.jpgFashion for dogs pradaleash.jpgFashion for dogs - collar and leash by Paul Smith.jpg

Fashion for dogs - collar by Ralph Lauren alligator.jpg
Above: Prada and Paul Smith

Right: Ralph Lauren

Other beautiful accessories are the Gingko carrier and bed by Etro, the Milan company, printed in signature Etro paisley with a Japanese twist, for small dogs only, and the Etro corduroy bed and blanket, stain and odor resistant, in green, crimson and yellow (see below).


Fashion for dogs - Etro bag and bed.jpgFashion for dogs - etrodogbed.jpg

Bottega Veneta's dog bed is made of shearling and very soft linen on the inside, whilst the outside is woven with thicker linen in typical Bottega Veneta "intrecciato" style and is suitable for small/medium-sized customers.  Last of all, the absolutely chic lunch box/picnic basket by Goyard in chevron canvas, their signature pattern - the bowls can obviously be removed for cleaning.

Fashion for dogs - bed by Bottega Veneta.jpgFashion for dogs - Goyard lunch box.jpg

What joy it must be to be able to own one of these marvelous objects!  I am not speaking for the dogs, that goes without saying...

Accessories' photographs:  www.sybarites.org




Caterina Crepax, Designer Exceptional - Paper Clothes

Caterina Crepax for entry - MEDUSA~1 (2).JPGValentina x first article - crepax.gif
Caterina Crepax is a designer who has had the rare fortune to grow up in a very creative world, something which doubtless helped her to develop her uncommon gifts.  I say uncommon, because she makes clothes out of paper, clothes that can be worn or used as sculptures/objects to display.  She belongs to the category of stylists on the borderline with pure artistic creation.  Caterina was certainly helped by the fact that her late father was the most brilliant Italian strip cartoon creator of the sixties and later decades, the "father" of Valentina, modern woman "par excellence".  You may know Valentina, even if you are not Italian yourself - she epitomized the real woman, a fantasy in some respects, but not the she-doll to play with, back in those days when women were trying very hard to get out of playing the rôles of objects idealized by men.  Guido Crepax certainly was a friend of women and his Valentina is still with us today to remind us...

Right: VALENTINA by Guido Crepax

But let's get back to Caterina, the heroine of this article, after all.  She has developed a very personal identity in spite, and I do mean that, of being the daughter of someone who became a myth of a very significant culture during his lifetime.


Crepax lampshade - 146.jpgCrepax blue corset - 0m2[2] blu.jpg

Scissors in her tiny hands, she started young, perhaps not knowing what her inspiration was driving her to, though she was certainly helped by the fact that she was growing up in a world encouraging individual development.  Caterina's clothes are the result of an exceptional work of patience, skill and, above all, creativity.  The entry picture is a white dress called MEDUSA and above are a corset in a blue background and a lampshade sculpture which might have been previously worn as an item of clothing - the paper clothes can be recycled into sculptures lit from the inside, in a world where waste has become a very wicked word...


Crepax Vogue newspaper dress - SPORTIVA fotografato per Vogue.jpgCrepax leafy dress - 104.jpg





The newspaper dress above, which was featured in
VOGUE, well represents Caterina's irony and the
leaf-patterned dress next to it is more in a classical
style, so to speak.
Crepax - abito scultura SPOSAMI!.jpgCrepax - bikini IMG_5708.JPG
Finally, look at the SPOSAMI! (marry me!) sculpture-dress, with the beautifully and very accurately worked bodice, all chopped up to make a very attractive lacework AND the bikini, more suitable for standing out at a party than for going for a swim, no doubt...all exceptional three-dimensional work...

Caterina was born in 1964 and lives in Milan, Italy.  She has a degree in Architecture from the Milan Polytechnic.  She has worked as an architectural interior designer, as a graphic artist and has designed installations for exhibitions, almost always made with paper.  She uses precious paper, often combined with newspaper cuttings, shredded office documents, punched computer print-outs, paper doilies for cakes, receipts and printers' leftovers...paper is re-born is her hands AND is duly recycled.

You'll be able to read more about Caterina in my interview with her, to be published in this blog soon...I'm sure you'll find her most fascinating, just as I did.



2nd Skin - Modern Jewelry between Art and Design in Torino, Italy

ARMAN_Bracciale caffettiere - entry picture 2nd skin




The 2nd Skin exhibition opened in Torino, Italy, on December 18 at Palazzo Bertalazone di San Fermo, the XVIIth century period building regularly hosting events in which art is strictly connected with design and fashion.  You can admire the pieces of jewelry that follow, beautiful and precious works of art by some of today's most outstanding designers, both in Italy and elsewhere.


The yellow gold bracelet on the right is the work of the late Arman, the French artist.  It represents coffee pots which form the bangle, as you can see if you look attentively enough.



The yellow/white gold bracelet below is a creation of the late Pol Bury, French artist, and the following three pieces are by contemporary designer Akiko Kurihara, rings in gold and silver, a silver necklace and two pendants in silver/silk with the letter g.
2nd skin - POL_BURY_Bracciale rotondo oro bianco e giallo_2001_oro bianco e giallo 18kt_180gr_8,5x4cm.jpg2nd Skin - Akiko Kurihara_ring ring_18Kgold_silver925.jpg2nd Skin - Akiko Kurihara_ 1024_yotta_necklace_ silver925_low.jpg2nd Skin - Akiko Kurihara_1g_pendant_silver925_silk string_
Irene Moret's bangle below, Armadillo, by 2iceDESIGN, is a bracelet in sheet steel, brass sheet or copper.  It's a "futuristic" suit of armor, a unique jewel executed after a fantastic design.  Armadillo will be leaving these shores soon to go and live at the MOMA in New York City.  The yellow gold and turquoise brooch next to it is the work of Mimmo Rotella, Italian multiform artist.
2nd skin - Irene Moret_ARMADILLO_bracciale MOMA.jpg2nd skin - MIMMO_ROTELLA_Spilla Mistero_1998_orogiallo18kt e turchesi_20gr_6x3cm.jpg
I particularly admire the extreme originality of Margherita de Martino Norante's two pieces shown here, the necklace BE CAREFUL, CLEMENTINE in silver/fabric and plastic pearls and the WAIT brooch, in copper/wire/shibuichi and gold, both so very unique.
2nd skin -Margherita de Martino Norante_be careful clementine_necklace_silver_fabric_plastic pearls_2009.jpg2nd skin - Margherita de Martino Norante_WAIT_brooch_copper wire_shibuichi_gold_2009.jpg
And, finally, Yoko Ono's humorous ring "Box of smile" in white gold, next to which lies the silver bangle "Je me sens libre" (I feel free) by Ben Vautier, never at a loss for the written word.
2nd skin -YOKO_ONO_Anello Box of smile_2004_orobianco18kt_22gr_4x1,8x1,8cm.jpg2nd skin - BEN_VAUTIER_Bracciale Je me sens libre_2002_argento925_197,40gr_4x7,2x6,2cm.jpg
If you want to read more about the works exhibited, some by lesser-known artists, though by no means less interesting, more info is available from Palazzo Bertalazone di San Fermo.

Open Atelier at Animaglia, Torino, Italy - Knitwear and Modern Jewelry

Animaglia - Delfino entry picture
Animaglia is a store in Torino, Italy.  Its owner is Maria Teresa Grilli, who creates out-of-the-ordinary knitwear from the depth of her soul, she says, loving what she does and has been doing for nearly thirty years now, hence the anima=soul in Italian, to which animali=animals is added (she uses only natural yarns, such as alpaca, wool, cashmere, yak) to create maglia=knitwear, which compose the the name of the store, a contraction of the three words.
Animaglia - Grilli knitwear 2Animaglia - Grilli knitwear 1
Knitwear by Maria Teresa Grilli - Animaglia

In addition to Maria Teresa's own work, Animaglia is now hosting an exhibition of pieces ( all unique items) by a number of gifted designers, such as Adriana Delfino, whose necklaces you can admire in the entry picture as well as further down, Maurizia Cabbia's beautiful scarves, and necklaces, bracelets, earrings by Valentina Laganà, Sabine Ongaro and Cristiana Erbetta.  These ladies also create very original dresses and a variety of accessories.

Animpaglia - Cabbia 2Animaglia - Cabbia 1
Above: Maurizia Cabbia

Animaglia - Erbetta 2Animaglia - Erbetta 1
Above: Cristiana Erbetta

Animaglia - Laganà 2Animaglia - Laganà 1
Above: Valentina Laganà

Animaglia - Ongaro 2Animaglia - Ongaro 1
Above: Sabine Ongaro

Animaglia - Delfino 2Animaglia - Delfino 1
Above: Adriana Delfino

Personally, I am very fond of modern jewelry and ornaments, and I think we live in times when individual creativity and craftsmanship are appreciated as much as precious metals and stones.  Gone are the days when jewelry was just a status symbol, as in the '40s and the '50s, when heavy "gold" rings were often filled with a big lump of lead to make them seem heavier - beware, if you are buying "retro" jewelry from those decades, they may be worth money as antiques, but not necessarily their weight in gold...

The exhibition will be on until December 18 at Animaglia, Via Galliari 31, Torino, tel: +39 340 867 1628.

All photographs by Alessia Barucchi


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