Make-Up Trends: Lots, Little or None?

Since making-up is synonymous with lying and pretending, the final issue is always related to what we want our face (or our body, for that matter) to look like.  The lips from the Avon catalogue on the right are clearly intended to attract our attention in a most direct manner.

Current trends are more in favor of the “bare face” look, which, as we all know, requires as much, if not more, work, with foundation and blush carefully applied, minimal eye shades and difficult-to-create nude lips.  Goes without saying that the basic canvas ought to be excellent, but THAT was Mother Nature’s job.

In western society, the wearing of lots of make-up was still a declaration of little virtue at the beginning of the 20th century, later confined to actors, until ordinary women took to wearing lipstick and “rouge” in the roaring twenties.  The sixties brought us heavily made-up eyes and pale lips, with winged eyeliner, false and painted eyelashes, which went very well with beehived hair…for a look most unnatural.  Revivals being very much a thing of the present times, we have seen how the late Amy Winehouse adopted these trends to create her image…and we have also just seen how French designer Jean Paul Gaultier made Winehouse the muse of his  S/S 2012 couture collection.  Below is one of the outfits.

What now, as far as make-up is concerned?  Prevalently little or (apparently) none, heavily made up eyes definitely not being the now thing, but red lips make most women so attractive…didn’t Victorian ladies of proven virtue bite their lips and pinch their cheeks to make themselves even worthier of men’s admiration?

 

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Christian Louboutin, Master Shoemaker

Being very much into shoes at this particular moment, a mention of Christian Louboutin‘s creations is somewhat inevitable.  We have had, in the past, (and the present, too) shoemakers rising above the status of mere cordwainers… Salvatore Ferragamo became the shoemaker of Hollywood stars in the first half of the past century (he started designing shoes as far back as 1924) and the ’70s saw the birth of the “new shoe” with the likes of Manolo Blahnik, which has continued in more recent times with creators such as Jimmy Choo.

Mr. Louboutin’s shoes have a distinctive red sole, which is present in nearly every model he’s ever made…that is his very personal touch.  Men’s shoes, in the days of extreme male elegance more than a couple of centuries ago (before the peacock donned his feathers for the sober and somewhat sad black suit of the 19th century) had high heels which went very well with their frills and lace – not to mention facial make up – and often the heels were red, to attract the attention of the ladies with promises of most interesting hidden attributes.

Still, Louboutin makes mostly women’s shoes and his creations are considered the ultimate in high-heel fashion and are coveted by many, since only the best and most comfortable materials are used…they have indeed become very much of a status symbol.  Walking and standing on high heels all day is not easy…as the master himself says in a recent interview with a French ladies’ magazine, you should practise at home before you venture out into the world of sidewalks and uneven paths…and maybe initially simply confine the wearing to special occasions, unless you happen to be one of the lucky few possessing an enviable physical balance.

 

 

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The Times They Have A-Changed…Have They?

Yes and no, as it’s always the case when it comes to fashion.  We have recently looked at new trends for the coming season, which propose looks with the usual déjà-vu touch, but then isn’t fashion a reworking of old stuff with new details, which make all the difference?  It surely is, suffice to look at varying skirt lengths, pointed shoes vs. rounded toes or, for that matter, high heels and flat heels.

We are currently surrounded by revivals, vintage, rétro, with the difference that we now admit they are such.  When Christian Dior introduced the “new look” in 1947 it was only new in relation to the forties’ fashions, shorter skirts and wedgies (made with cork at that time) which had been mostly inspired by a shortage of materials during World War II.  When fabrics became again widely available, skirts were wider (and longer), too.  So, nothing’s (totally) new under the sun, though lots of details are.  The gorgeous lady from the ’50s portrayed above has certainly inspired many present-day garments with her long, narrow-waisted swirling skirt (as has done the Mad Men TV series) though I am not so sure about her headgear, a cross between a beret and a pillbox partly worn on her forehead. Aside from a few fashionistas, only Jackie Kennedy wore pillbox hats…and that was in the sixties…oh, yes, and Carla Bruni wore one when she met the Queen at Buckingham Palace, but then, I think it was a sort of tongue-in-cheek choice for a President’s wife…I shan’t delve on Mamie Eisenhower‘s choice of hats, for her elegance is not what she is best remembered for.

The way in which the times are definitely changing is due to the much faster pace of life and that is exclusively thanks to the modern technology we now have whereby we don’t have to wait for people to travel (slowly) by coach or on horseback from one country to another to bring the news on the latest fashions…and THAT cannot be denied.

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Fashion trends for 2012?

Or rather, should I say, what will be accepted amongst the suggestions of the now very many designers and fashion houses new and old?  The majority of the public doesn’t just doggedly copy what’s seen on the runway and the considerations to make on the issue would certainly be many more than what follows.

Skirt lengths: mini, maxi or midi?  Take your pick, but mini is being phased out, maxi is not that practical for the busy working woman, so mid-calf length should win the contest.  Pants: yes, of course, here to stay forever, since Chanel‘s introduction of very baggy white pants on the shores of Deauville, back in the thirties, when they stopped being the man’s prerogative for (their own) greater comfort.  Loose-fitting or tight-fitting clothes?  Loose, who would want to feel uncomfortable and restricted? (save for an evening gown…worn for just a few hours to charm all and sundry).

Handbags: big, to hold heaps of personal and working items…small clutch purses are very cute with evening outfits, but it stops at that.  And, let’s face it, shoulder bags leave you BOTH hands free to deal with carrying shopping bags, holding children’s hands, dogs’ leashes and…why not? bouquets of flowers.  I know, it’s more ladylike to carry a handbag on your forearm, but we are no longer in the ’50s when purchases were home-delivered, we have to carry our own shopping bags these days.

Make-up: (apparently) minimal (I know, it takes much longer, but there you are).  Shoes: here we go again, you have seen lots of great design in my most recent posts and I can’t but praise flattering high heels for special occasions…still, the majority of women need to have their feet firmly on the ground (during the day, that is).

The above photographs, by Getty Images, were taken during Jakarta‘s Fashion Week. The green, flowing dress image is by Budi Suryanto and the picture of the embroidered outfit just above, created by Biyan, Indonesian designer, was taken by Honda Tranggono.

 

 

 

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Unusual Shoes to Wear…or Simply Admire

The sandals above are a work of art for you to admire, made with “thonet” wood,  just like the eponymous chairs, and were created by Pablo Reinoso (photograph by Estudio Cavallero), though what follows includes many wearable items, all of them “different” in more than one way.

Left, a pair of shoes with light-up heels, by Nicholas Kirkwood, created for Rodarte‘s F/W 2010/11 collection.  The shoe/bootie on the right , by cate and nelson, is a model called SPLINE which I find simply beautiful, with its enveloping design, texture of fabric and color, so flattering to the foot, much hidden, thus attracting the viewer’s gaze and, as is my case, admiration.

       

Above, left, cute plastic booties (made with recyclable material) by Melissa, an originally Sao Paolo (Brazil) company, now present all over the world, and on the right, a pliable trainer (or barefoot-like sneaker, if you prefer) conceived by Nike and Tama Art University in Japan.

The final work, above, is just a pure piece of art, and was created by Ozkar Gorgies, former street artist.

These are but a few samples of “incredible shoes”…you can find more on designboom together with what’s new in design in other fields.

 

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Gazith – More Gorgeous Shoes from Israel

The above “creeper” sandal is one of the many creations of Gazith, an Israeli company created in Tel Aviv in 1985…the design of their footwear is SO innovative, unlike anything I have ever seen before (and, believe me, I do look at what’s new in the tootsy world all the time).  The model you see (photography by Alessia Barucchi) is part of last summer’s collection, which included many other designs, all extremely original, be they high-heeled, flats, wedgies or creepers.  Unique.  Or maybe I should say Israeli shoe design is unique, for I can’t certainly exclude the likes of Kobi Levi from my consideration (see post published August 7 “Shoes, Glorious Shoes”, category Art…yes, that’s art, for me anyway).

You can view a video of more creations by Gazith by clicking on the link at the top of the page and see their new 2012 collection here.  Their main store is located in Tel Aviv at 5, Sheinkin Street and their shoes can be found at most commercial centers throughout the country….unless you are lucky enough to live in California, where they are sold at Ventura Bvd. in Studio City, LA.

AND, I must add, they are extremely comfortable and well-made (you guessed right, I bought several pairs myself…!)

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The Kicking Boot – Fashion, Art and Design from Italy in London – Opening November 25, 2011

The “Boot” is alive and kicking (despite recent troubles)…and very much so in the realms of art, fashion and design.  Italy has an incredible talent, and, if you are going to be in London to attend the exhibition, you’ll be able to admire many aspects of contemporary Italian creativity.

Events will start on Friday, November 25 with an operatic concert, followed in the next two days by dance and art performances, a live concert on Saturday 26, finishing off with a fashion show scheduled at 6.00 p.m. on Sunday 27.  All this will take place at  the multifunctional art space Le Sorelle, which is in fact a luxurious river barge anchored at West India Dock.

Above images by Studio G.A.G.A. – Torino; photography by Adele Obice; styling by Anna Neretto.

Below, two necklaces by Adriana Delfino, designer, jewelry creator (AND fashion history professor) from Torino (see my post on Adriana published January 18, 2011, category INTERVIEWS)…more on show at The Kicking Boot, of course…

     

Silvia Beccaria, who works and creates in Torino, too (and whom I also interviewed – interview published September 19, 2009) is known mostly for her gorgeous ruffs, though here she will be presenting her tapestry work…she is a true genius of the loom…see below two of her pieces, Tre di Notte (Three a.m.) and Effetto Notte (Day for Night), which is a homage to the late French film director François Truffaut‘s timeless masterpiece…made with super-8 celluloid film (the tapestry, that is):

   

I suggest you attend the events and take a look at the work of the many artists participating…you’ll get to see what the contemporary side of (creative) Italy has to offer right now.

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One Hundred and Fifty Years of Italian Fashion at Venaria Reale, Torino, Italy

That many years…you may well wonder why.  The reason is that Italy is celebrating its 150-year unity and the mammoth exhibition in question is being held to also tell us about the country’s history, seen from a fashion angle.

On the right, a  gown by Roberto Capucci, celebrated Italian designer  from the ’50s, partly hidden by a paper frame evidencing the fine, colorful pleats.  We all know about Italian fashion, which has been travelling around the world since the ’70s and, surely, what came before that was pretty much alike internationally, at least in the 19th century.  In previous times, without going back to the middle ages, the differences varied enormously from one European country to another (due to some lack of media exposure, no doubt, news and novelties couldn’t travel THAT fast).

See below a couple of installations of clothes from the early 20th century:

and two gorgeous 19th century gowns, the black belonged to the Countess of Castiglione,  the famous (and notorious, I should add) Italian noblewoman who became the mistress of Napoleon III, and the white, which was worn by actress Claudia Cardinale in Luchino Visconti’s by-now classic movie The Leopard (in the sumptuous ball scene, when she, representing the “new world”, for she is the daughter of a self-made man, meets Burt Lancaster‘s ageing character, the disappearing old world/régime):

The Venaria Royal Palace was built by the House of Savoy in the 17th century, very close to the city of Torino.  Its name is derived from the Latin Venatio Regia (Royal Hunt) because of the rich hunting woodland surrounding it.  The palace and its beautiful gardens (which have been part of the Unesco World Heritage list since 1997) are well worth visiting, once you are done with the fashion side of things and have admired the two hundred gowns on show, many of which in their historical context.

 

Continue reading for images of the Palace of Venaria and more images from the past and the present…

 

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Y-3 Spring/Summer 2012 by Yohji Yamamoto…simply divine, as usual…

You must know, by now, that I am an unconditional admirer of Yohji Yamamoto‘s clothes for the unparalleled elegance of their simplicity, where everything relies on the cut, the lines and the perfect proportions.  As for the color matches, even when it’s all black, as in the picture on the right, the outfit and the look stand out…with the additon of a mostly white hat, as are the trainers, perfectly assorted to the overall look, always making Mr. Yamamoto’s creations uniquely recognizable amongst his many worldwide followers.  And when I use the word followers, I do not necessarily mean imitators, for his style has been inspiring designers for decades….

That said, you can see here a selection of images from the Y-3 women’s and men’s collection, sporty and casual, which was shown  in the SoHo district of New York City a couple of weeks ago.  The theme being sport, we can see English checks, graphic Mod-era prints, rough workwear and Union Jacks to go with the British ’60s mood. All to to the sound of music by Tokio Hotel and Miyavi.

        

Most of these clothes can be worn by people of different shapes, sizes and ages…and by that I mean the individual garment, for the final put-together is always up to the wearer, unless you just want to doggedly copy the catwalk look…I am sure none of you would want to do that, would you?

Photographs by image.net at Getty Images

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History, Art and Fashion at Sabbioneta, Northern Italy

The Sabbioneta Art Festival opens tomorrow and will be on for two months…I give you ample time to go and see for yourself…first, the amazingly beautiful one-thousand-year-old town.  On the art/fashion front, the exhibition will give particular prominence to the relationship between history, contemporary art (of which the above work, by Carlo Chechi, is an example) and fashion.  The fashion aspect will deal mostly with 16th and 17the century theatrical costumes, though you will be able to see present-day creations by designers such as the late Gianni Versace (see my 1983 interview with the man himself published in this blog June 9, 2009, INTERVIEWS category)…below, a couple of Versace-designed theater costumes created in the ’80s, Matrioska on the left and the blue dress which was created for Richard Strauss‘ Salomé performed at La Scala, Milan, in 1987,

    

as was the white dress worn by young Salomé, inspired by Alice in Wonderland, below left:

hence the exhibition’s name “From the Scene of Life to the Life of Scene”.

More examples of contemporary art on show below:

  

Above, a self-portrait by Michelangelo Pistoletto, the Audrey Hepburn image is by Fabio Panichi and a painting by Mario Schifano.  What you see here is a very small selection, there will be more than one hundred works on show, from the international art scene, which will include Roy Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol, Robert Rauschenberg, to name but a few.

Another section will be dedicated to the diva Maria Callas, and not only to her theatrical costumes, but also her own original clothes, jewels and photographs…and an original creation by Yves Saint Laurent.

 

The Sabbioneta Art Festival  will be on until November 20 at the Palazzo Ducale and Galleria degli Antichi, Sabbioneta (Mantua).  To know more about Sabbioneta the city and previous events, see my post PLEASE ME FASHION published in the Art category July 23, 2010.  Below, one final fashion-connected (perhaps) image of a painting by Renato Mambor.

Below, three images of some of the costumes on show (including stage costumes created for opera singer Maria Callas) -  see my post about the Maria Callas Foundation published May 24, 2009, category EDITORIALS (even if you aren’t an opera buff). The lady owned some fantastic jewels…

   

 

 

 

 

 

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