Christian Dior and the Hollywood Stars…an Exhibition

Posted on May 15, 2012 by patrizia-molechino

                    

Gowns by Christian Dior, created for Hollywood stars such as Grace Kelly, Rita Hayworth and Elizabeth Taylor (fifty items in all) are on exhibit at the mythical designer’s birthplace museum at Granville, Normandy, north of France, at the moment.  The museum is located in the “Les Rhumbs” villa, where Dior was born in 1905.

Above, right, Dior himself with a model and, in the other black and white pictures, a couple of designs from the A/W 1955 collection, showing the Y line (Dior loved giving his lines the names of alphabet letters to define the overall silhouette, Y narrows downwards, A is a sort of trapeze, and H ignores the waistline, then there was the figure 8, rounded above and below a narrow waist…).  The man was a brilliant, innovative designer, particularly considering he never really intended to pursue this career in his youth, as he was happy merely designing costumes for his own pleasure…  Still, his father, an industrialist, lost his fortune in the 1931 crash and, luckily for the world and, I daresay,  fashion history, the young man had to get himself a job learning what was then not considered a suitable activity for a “gentleman”.  He became famous when, after the wartime restrictions, he introduced the “new look” in 1947, which can be resumed in the employment of heaps of fabric to create long, wide skirts…women in the streets of Paris were attacked by other women who thought this display of abundant materials signified a lack of respect for the hard, post-war times.

Below, a picture of some of the gowns at the Granville exhibition (image by AP)

The designer’s career was extraordinary, albeit short.  After being acclaimed worldwide for the “new look”, he spent the following ten years of his life renovating himself with every  collection and was THE designer “par excellence”, not only for Hollywood stars, but also for women all over the world who wished to obtain the Dior look, with or without the means to buy the “real thing”.  In 1957 he went to a spa in Italy, Montecatini Terme, to rest and recover from overwork, or that’s what he hoped for, for fate had decided otherwise and he didn’t leave the place alive…but he had already become a legend.

 

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Are eyeglasses the new fashion accessory?

Posted on May 4, 2012 by patrizia-molechino

Oh, yes, most definitely! Gone are the days when men did not make passes at girls who wore glasses, to (inevitably) refer to the (very) short poem written by Dorothy Parker nearly one hundred years ago…time does fly.  Although not quite a century ago, I still remember my mother’s tears as the optometrist said I would have to wear glasses at school, to correct a mild short-sightedness…for fear of lack of passes and potential husbands, no doubt.

Then contact lenses arrived and saved the day for many would-be spinsters, and now we have corrective surgery and no-one needs to wear specs any more….so, since they are no longer necessary, eyeglasses have proudly become the new fashion accessory and we don’t grope around any longer to find our way like Marilyn did so charmingly in the movie “How to Marry a Millionaire”….see her below in the witty portrayal of the short-sighted not-so-dumb blonde aspiring to a profitable marriage (though in the end love triumphs, as is usually the case… in the movies).

Glasses are worn by almost everyone these days, be they shades completing the overall look or prescription specs to correct the vision, in the young as in the older, who still, inevitably, become long-sighted at some stage in their lives.  What is new is the fashion accessory aspect….practically all major designers, from Chanel to Prada to Armani or Calvin Klein, to name a few, propose fashionable frames to complement our look, so let’s go along with it and, in the bargain, protect our eyes from the potentially nefarious effects of the sun and improve our vision, no small  matter.

Below, a design by Chanel.

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Pink! Pink! Pink!

Posted on April 24, 2012 by patrizia-molechino

What about a pink jacket for Spring?  The garment you can see on the right is beautifully cut, AND it’s waterproof and cashmere-lined, made in Italy by Loro Piana and available in the U.S. from Bergdorf Goodman…let me tell you, it’s quite expensive…I have bought a similar design for myself spending relatively little and, goes without saying, doing without the cashmere lining.

We are seeing a lot of pastel colors this season, as well as “neon pop”, and I think it’s fair to suggest we won’t tire of pastels as quickly as we would of brighter shades, though I must say I am rather fond of impact-making fuchsias and peacock blues, which can be easily mixed with the lighter hues (though never more than three at the time, we all know that, don’t we?).  And,  if you feel that fuchsia is a bit too much (myself, I’ve bought fuchsia suède knee-high moccasin-style boots to go with my pastel-pink jacket), you can opt for shocking pink, (first introduced into the fashion world by the great Elsa Schiaparelli back in the 1930s), which is a shade less aggressive …

I remember wearing a lot of pink when I was a child…pastels were deemed most suitable for kids in those days, pink for dark-haired girls and pale blue for blue-eyed blondes.  All a bit pretty-pretty by today’s trends and tastes… unless you are a Barbie fan, as many small girls still are (are they?).  Being the big girls we all are, we can therefore choose to wear candy colors, perhaps slightly tongue-in-cheek…

Whatever the deep-set motive behind our individual choice and behind new fashion in general, pastels are here to stay (for a season, at least).  Are we perhaps softening up after years of black punk-y styles and similar aggressive trends?

If you just want a touch of baby pink, showing itself off less than a jacket, you might consider a plain, simple dress, such as the one on the right by Jenni Kayne, which can be worn under a black/blue/gray jacket with (possibly) pink/fuchsia or black jewelry, a pink/black/blue purse and shoes or boots (not matching the purse, though) in any of the above colors….fuchsia suède, perhaps?

And don’t forget to add a bit of orange-y color to your cheeks, if you want to avoid the excessively “pink lady” look…

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Boots for Summer…(Relatively) New Fashion Trend

Posted on April 15, 2012 by patrizia-molechino

What’s the point? (practically speaking)… you may well ask…  Hmm, not modesty, for sure, more like attracting attention to your legs and feet, really.  This trend has been trying to impose itself for some years now, though I have known people (including myself) who have privileged boots to semi-naked  extremities since a while ago.  It’s the old story of hiding so as to arouse interest…with many advantages, such as covering not-so-fine-ankles or calves or imperfect feet.

The high-heeled Christian Louboutin fishnet boot (left), with an airy feel, peep toes and signature red sole is a perfect example  illustrating what I am saying above.  You will certainly look and feel more elegant this way than wearing a pair of thongs or simple sandals.  Obviously this applies to town dwellers and is not intended to replace flipflops at a seaside resort, though it will complete your look for evening wear, and that, anywhere.

On the right, ankle-high booties, (again by Mr. Louboutin) which should be most becoming if you can put up with having your heels encased in a more shoe-like manner, though the toes are bound to get their share of fresh air.

And, below, another example… fringed boots where the fringes can  either be worn or cast aside to reveal a pair of most elegant pumps… another Louboutin creation.

 

For wearers of flat heels, there is also an abundance of  sandals or thongs covering much of the foot and leg, which I find very attractive and definitely more “dressy” than the somewhat “naked” foot  (you can see a drawing below to get your inspiration on the models to choose from)… and remember to always make sure your feet are well-pedicured before showing them off in summer attire!

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“Neon-Pop” Colors for Spring and Summer

Posted on April 5, 2012 by patrizia-molechino

What on earth is “neon-pop”,  you may well ask?  Definitely a neologism, for what is new invariably aspires to become fashionable, even if just for the (50-year-old by now) 15 minutes definition.  We know we are going through hard times (were times ever easy, really?), so we are in great need  of color to cheer us up, to compensate for financial difficulties, economic instabilities, political insecurities, you name it…..

The above is an example of what is defined as “neon-pop”, very bright fluorescent hues (hence the neon)… should the “pop” stand for popular, as in pop music, or for colors popping up in the midst of our gray daily dullness?  I suppose it would take a philosopher or, more like it, a marketing expert to explain that (I am not really either, I’m afraid, in spite of some experience in the subject matter).

Pretty, strong colors will brighten up the coming season, it seems, just as optimistic movies helped people through the great depression.  The above is all rather likable and certainly joyful, the only problem being you won’t be expecting it to last for years, as we shall all tire of wearing fuchsia, bright yellow and green by next Fall, probably, and revert to sober black outfits, suited to all ages and shapes (in spite of the truly enormous difficulty of matching black with black, the hardest color match of all).  Meanwhile, we can enjoy “neon-pop”…. of which you can see a further example below in hairstyles worn by models at Greek designer’s Celia Kritharioti‘s London presentation of her S/S/ 2012 collection.

Picture by image.net at Getty Images

 

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“Mad Men” Betty Draper Setting Trends…

Posted on March 25, 2012 by patrizia-molechino

The return of early sixties classic attire is perhaps partly due to “Mad Men” heroine Betty Draper, the iceberg-cool blonde Grace Kelly look-alike played in the series (now in its fifth season) by actor January Jones.

We can see everywhere in the press intense coverage of this, by-now, long-expected comeback of styles, though signs have been in the budding for a while.  I’ll elaborate on that…

There have beeen a lot of strapless, narrow- waisted gowns with full skirts in the last few years and it was generally thought the fifties were being revisited, and in a way they were.  Now the short, Bettie Page fringe is part of many a hairstyle, also thanks to Noomi Rapace‘s character in the “Millennium” movies…though here it’s clearly associated with ’80s punk, all-black outfits and an abundance of tattoos.  We can then say that the fifties’ revival has left its mark, and progressing from that, the path is now open for the revival of styles from the following decade.  All most prim and proper (see Miss Jones in “Mad Men” above) though definitely out of touch with present-day comfort notions… high heels, strangled waists, corsets and bodices being somewhat restraining…  I think we should take our pick (as usual) with a view to looking cutely rétro/vintage, (hopefully not outdated, particularly if living in far-away provinces) in the hope our style will be recognized as a revival and not mistaken for a phase of indigence forcing us to resort to raiding mother’s (or would it be grandmother’s?) trunk up in the loft.  Let us be most alert and aware of reactions from bystanders.

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Fashion, Style, Elegance and Allure

Posted on March 17, 2012 by patrizia-molechino

They are just clothes hanging in a closet, maybe fashionable, maybe not, but they wouldn’t mean anything if somebody didn’t put them on, so we can rightly say fashion exists to be worn and what matters above all is HOW it is worn.  We are meant to make clothes come to life on our bodies and must beware of garments that, vice versa,”wear us”.  Let’s keep in mind that the wearer is in charge and should refuse to be bullied into so-called “fashionable” outfits trying to take the upper hand.

First, you need a mirror (easy) and secondly (much harder) a critical approach.  It is difficult, most of the time, to look at oneself without condescension and with accurate self-criticism, but it’s the essential part of the creation of the individual look, for which clothes are just the props to make you stand out from “the crowd” (and that doesn’t mean just making heads turn in amazement or, in some cases, even shocked horror).

Fashion being OK, style is even better and practice will, hopefully, eventually make perfect.  As for elegance, we can’t but reiterate the fact that simplicity is its very essence, not easy, I know.  Let us not forget the notion of allure, as all the above should be exhibited within an aura of charm.  The late Diana Vreeland, one of last century’s fashion icons, managed to give a new meaning to the “allure” word.  You can now see, if you are in Venice, a gorgeous exhibition dedicated to Ms. Vreeland at Palazzo Fortuny.  I strongly recommend you to go, you’ll be able to see with your own eyes what I’m talking about…I remember meeting this most imaginative and witty lady in the early eighties and being most impressed by her personality, style, elegance and by her undeniable allure.

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Latest Trends: Are Pastels the New Color-Block?

Posted on March 4, 2012 by patrizia-molechino

The outfits above by Phillip Lim (S/S 2012 collection) are amongst the most representative of the new trend in favor of mixing pastel colors…I would call it a kind of pastel color-block.  All very delicate and flattering, though not to everyone, in my view.  It is commonly said older ladies should wear lots of pastel shades, for they are supposed to soften (the wrinkles and lines, I guess) giving an overall subdued image.  I don’t quite agree, as I think it’s mostly a matter of skin color.  I think you should avoid them unless you have a slightly tanned complexion and skin..  I’ll enlarge on that… Though pastels are traditionally for babies, they don’t go that well with their mostly ruddy complexions.  One of my teachers at fashion school used to say babies should be dressed in BLACK, and I agree with her, ignoring the “purity” idea usually attached to the recently-born.  So, go for pastels if you like them, remembering, however, to put a bit of “tan” on your body and face.

The above (Jil Sander S/S 2011) is a sort of pastel in a more definite hue (though it belongs to last summer’s color-block issue) and I find the match very exciting.  Strong contrasts are a way to show one’s individuality in mixing shades to create an impact (without overdoing accessories and jewelry, of course, but then refined simplicity seems to be making a comeback).

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And men…are they changing shape, too?

Posted on March 1, 2012 by patrizia-molechino

The attention and care given to the body is not just women’s business, for men are into fitness and image as much as their counterparts these days. Just as well, they wouldn’t make a nice pair if she looked great and fit, and he sloppy and round-bellied…and I am not talking about beefcake.  The era of hedonism is all-embracing and it extends to our children and pets…for the image must include the perfect setting and participation of all the members of the family.  See, above, an image of soccer player David Beckham, perfectly shaped and tattooed, in an advertisement for Emporio Armani underwear (a campaign for H & M underwear, featuring Mr. Beckham – again – has just been released in the international press).

In the days when middle age started  at around 30, the majority of men became somewhat heavier as most people, save sportsmen, didn’t practise much physical activity…that is very much behind us now.  So, how is the male shape changing?  They are lean and, save for a few impenitent overeaters, the “tummy” is as flat as that of the ladies (see Beckham’s perfect “chocolate bar” tummy). As for clothes, vanity has made a definite comeback in the male field, which is just as good, for women can no longer be accused of being the only ones  thinking about clothes and image. The advantage is undeniably a better health condition for all, which will allow us to have a better quality of life, as long as we are around, that is…  Remember Emma Stone’s line in the movie “Crazy, Stupid Love” in which, admiring Ryan Gosling‘s physique (see above), she exclaims he looks like he’s been photoshopped?  As for tattoos, abundant on Beckham, they are still very much in fashion, for boys and girls… suffice thinking of the continuing success of the Millennium movies and of the character of The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, now interpreted by American actress Rooney Mara.

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The Changing Shape of Woman…(Continued)

Posted on February 8, 2012 by patrizia-molechino

 

The shapes represented above are an old classic from my schooldays, when we were told shapes differed depending on the part of the world you were born in…did women feel an obligation to conform and is that why it tended to be true?  Today’s girls can shape their body as they desire, through exercise (aided by some dieting, perhaps), more or less wherever they are living, as gyms abound around the world.
Take the geometric examples shown above…we can now say nothing is final and without remedy, if you are a triangle you will workout to diminish the hip region (or build up the shoulders) depending on whether your triangle is upright or inverted….a rectangle is very much the androgynous shape of the majority of young girls nowadays, not much of a waistline, but if that’s your shape, you can make a great clothes horse.  Hourglass is for the lucky few, though work on your waistline will gradually, albeit slowly, get you there.  If you are diamond-shaped, well, hmm… you have a bit of a problem and should try pushing half of it up and the other half down before wearing a swimsuit, though you should look OK in loose-fitting outfits.  Finally, if your shape is rounded, I guess you should just cut down on your food intake, before we can see what’s lying underneath.

Jesting aside, the idealized female form is invariably woman-like (see the ‘40s sketch on the right) and should include a narrow(ish) waist, breasts and a behind…with a tummy as flat as possible and long legs proportionate to the height…should the legs not be particularly long, a wise choice of clothes can do wonders to cheat with nature’s least successful attributes…

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